WILD FOOD: AGARITA

When song lyricist June Hershey wrote "the sage in bloom is like perfume" it was probably because "agarita" didn't have the same poetic ring to it. Right now, the lovely yellow blossoms of the agarita are sweetening the air, but beginning around May, they will turn to candy-tart, gloriously red little berries. This wild fruit is a magnet for birds and small mammals, as well as a cover source. And if the songbirds and cottontails leave you any leftovers, those little berries can also be transformed into sweet jellies, pies, cobblers, and even wine.

A wild Texas native, agarita is a drought-tolerant evergreen shrub fond of rocky limestone flats and slopes. While their holly-like prickly leaves might dissuade berry-picking, a little Texas ingenuity can render a basketful of fruit. Simply lay an old sheet under a bush and knock the bush with a stick. A good shake while wearing thick gloves can also do the trick. The ripe berries should fall to the sheet which can then be gathered up.

The internet is ripe with agarita recipes, but for those curious for a quick and easy taste of the wild fruits of your land beyond eating the berries raw, author Delena Tull in A Practical Guide to Edible & Useful Plants suggests the following: "To prepare a refreshing, cool drink from the berries, mash the fresh fruit, add water, heat to 190 degrees (F), and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth, and sweeten to taste."

As an added agarita bonus, the young, tender leaves make a nice salad green. They have an almost lemon flavor, just be sure to pick them while they're soft, or your salad will bite back!